Alternative to convert Super8, 16mm and 9.5mm films to digital video using inexpensive flatbed photo scanner and frame extraction free software. Now with optical sound extraction. There is also a new free software for 35mm films under development with a beta version. If you work with a big transparency lid scanner like the Epson V700 and V750 and low dpi setting, like 3200 dpi, you can scan one 50 feet super 8 cartridge in one hour work, and one 100 feet 16mm reel in two hour work, good for a DVD quality output or to share on internet. The V500 and V600 scanners works great but need more scans due to the transparency lid is smaller. After some new tests i found 3200 dpi is the best quality/performance resolution for DVD and WEB. Also using unsharp mask in scanner software gives good quality and faster workflow to improve the image. You can chose low, medium or heavy unsharp mask in EpsonScan software. You can get the free software and talk to him at: http://hosting.aktionspotenzial.de/CineToVidWiki/index.php/Hauptseite and http://www.wkurz.com In his websites you can find the download links and also the explanations how the software works (detailed help files). Also demo videos and, if you do not have a scanner or a film to scan, there are scanned filmstrips to download and do tests. The tutorial: To transfer your films to video, all you need is a flatbed photo / film (transparency) scanner pluged to your windows computer, and CineToVidPro (also the .net framework). I recommend 4GB RAM for high dpi work. Build a guide to film runs through the scanner glass. I did the filmguide with two layers of black adesive tape glued to a piece of glass and put this piece of glass over the scanner glass, and film runs between this glass sandwich on top and bottom and between the two black adesive tapes at sides. You can see the film guide in this photo album: http://www.flickr.com/photos/61446502@N03/5595719014/ To avoid light changing from one strip to other I used manual exposure in the EpsonScan software, and I keeped all settings flat. I keeped the same locked manual exposure for all the film reel. You can improve the exposure to get better dynamic range keeping good shadows and highliths with this tip: Select auto exposure in scanner software. In scanner preview window select the filmstrip without the sprocket holes, because the light trough sprocket holes ruins the auto exposure. Open the levels window. Copy the red, green and blue values. Go back to preview window. Select the filmstrip with the sprocket holes. Selec manual exposure in scanner software. Open the levels window again and type the values found before. This manual exposure tip also works great for color correction, because the levels values found by auto exposure corrects wrong colors. Count how many frames your scanner can get at each scan. The V500 can scan 16 frames per scan in Super8, 14 frames useful for extraction, so after each scan I run the film 14 frames and scan again. (The V700 and V750 can scan about 47 Super8 frames in each scan). If you do not want to run the film manually, you can build an automatic film transport hardware controlled by a free software. The tutorial and software are in these links: http://hosting.aktionspotenzial.de/CineToVidWiki/index.php/Software:ScanControl http://hosting.aktionspotenzial.de/CineToVidWiki/index.php/Hardware:Transport#Aufbau_1_-_5_.C2.BC.22_Floppy_Schrittmotor After scanning you go to cinetovidpro software and extract the frames from the scanned filmstrips. Cinetovidpro can also generate a movie, or you can import the frames to your video editing software.